The very definition of a wristwatch is one that attaches to the wrist. Pocket watches are relics of the past and haven’t been primary timekeepers for almost a century, so straps and bracelets now come in a limitless variety. Leather, rubber, metal, canvas, wood… even recycled plastic straps are common these days. You usually don’t tie them in a knot, so there needs to be a sensible way to connect them to the wrist. The two most common solutions are pin buckles and folding clasps, but variances like hidden butterfly clasps or deployant buckles can enhance both comfort and style. Here’s a look at some of the most popular ways to secure a strap or bracelet to the wrist.
Pin Buckles
Pin buckles are arguably the most versatile solution to securing a strap. It’s simple like a standard belt buckle, allows for effortless sizing on the wrist and secures with little possibility of accidental unbuckling. They’re also lightweight, slim and comfortable without added bulk from a clasp. Most NATO straps rely on pin buckles as well, so it’s hard to find fault with such a proven and simple design. It’s very easy to size a strap with a pin buckle and many are available in various lengths, so finding one that suits your wrist without compromise is easy. There are also a lot of materials that accommodate a pin buckle - leather, nylon, rubber, silicone, canvas and more. Almost all of our watches have an option for straps with pin buckles, including rubber straps for our latest Supersede.
Folding Buckles
Folding buckles are generally associated with metal bracelets and come in a few varieties. In its most basic form, three linked parts open and close with a hinge linked to the front of the bracelet. The other end of the bracelet attaches to the back of the clasp, either via a single set of holes and spring bar, or many holes for micro-adjusting. The clasp can simply click into place and be pulled open from the front. More secure versions have push buttons to open and many include a secondary folding/locking latch.
Micro-Adjustment Buckles
If you have small or medium wrists and order a watch with a large bracelet (most are large), links will inevitably have to be removed for a proper fit. Micro-adjustment buckles are those that allow for a bit of adjustment within the clasp itself, but not enough to compensate for entirely different wrist sizes. Micro-adjustments are usually achieved via sets of holes running down the clasp and a spring bar, allowing for up to 10mm of adjustment (usually less). This lets you dial in a bracelet if link removals alone aren’t quite perfect. It’s also great on hot summer days when a looser fit is more comfortable. In addition, divers often prefer to wear dive watches over a wetsuit sleeve and a diver’s extension (micro-adjustment clasp) quickly accommodates this without having to alter the bracelet itself. Traditional holes and a spring bar can be fiddly and require a tool, but there are ratcheting counterparts that quickly adjust with the push of a button. Some are limited in adjustment compared to traditional spring bar types and most are bulkier than standard clasps. Simply put, there’s often a tradeoff for the convenience.
The new micro-adjustment clasp with Supersede’s custom bracelet (see above video) has been designed by our team from the ground up. It’s the perfect blend of form and function. The buckle is only 40mm in length with an ultra-low profile of 5.6mm, which is just 2.5mm thicker than the bracelet itself. This allows it to wear like a non-adjustable variant - thin, compact and comfortable. It can be adjusted in ten positions of 1mm each for 10mm total, which is quite a range and perfect for divers. It can also be adjusted on the fly with the simple press of an internal button, but once adjusted, it’s very secure. Two buttons on either side of the clasp work independently, so both must be pushed to open it (dual-pin design). Also, a hard stop (lock) prevents movement or bending of the mechanism when pulled on. The entire clasp is machined from 904L stainless steel.
Deployant Buckles
Deployant buckles are different than folding buckles as they’re specifically designed for leather straps, although the two terms are often used interchangeably. Unlike pin buckles, they don’t detach entirely and leave two separate ends, but widen the strap to allow it to be slipped on and off the wrist like a bracelet. It’s a quicker and more secure way to wear a watch as many contain multiple attachment points, such as dual locking mechanisms and a secondary security latch. Like pin buckles, they’re easily adjusted using the strap’s holes - one end of the strap is pushed through an enclosure with a pin, which is then locked into the proper hole for size. It now resembles a folding buckle on a metal bracelet, opening without unlocking itself from the adjustment hole for quick on/off use. Many Horage leather straps come with deployant buckles.
Butterfly Clasps
Unlike conventional clasps that fold on the outside of a bracelet or strap, butterfly clasps fold underneath, creating a seamless connection of two bracelet ends. They can be used with straps as well (as a type of deployant buckle). There are twin hinges that open to the left and right (like a butterfly’s wings) and close together in the middle against the wrist, under the bracelet or strap. Like a folding buckle, some simply click into place and open by pulling on a tab, while others have twin buttons on either side. Many prefer the aesthetics of butterfly clasps, but a downside is they can’t accommodate micro-adjustments.
Everything Else
There are many other ways to attach a wristwatch, such as Velcro straps, Milanese (mesh) bracelets with a sliding & clamping buckle, wooden bracelets and clasps, stretchable rubber with no clasp, magnetic attachments and so on. Most luxury watches utilize one of the buckles mentioned above, but there are many creative strap and buckle options these days.
We Want to Hear From You!
Sound off in the comments about additional topics of interest, so we can be sure to cover what you want to read in future articles. And please share this with friends and anyone interested in watchmaking, and let's keep the conversation going. Also, be sure to sign up for our newsletter (here) and keep an eye out for new products as we're always in the process of development. Check out journal entries as well (here) and a detailed section on performance watchmaking at Horage (here).
We'll talk again soon!
Erik Slaven
Can I order an extra Deployant Buckle for my Tourbillon 1?