Micro-adjustments are often considered critical for steel bracelets, especially for divers where a watch might be shifted from the wrist to over a wetsuit sleeve. For all watches, however, it provides adjustment options in lieu of removing/adding links. Whether you've hit the gym and strengthened your wrist or are simply sizing a bracelet and need a fine adjustment to dial it in, a micro-adjustment option is always a welcomed addition. Although generally easy to use, most rely on a series of holes on the clasp and a spring bar. Relatively simple, but also fiddly and usually requires a tool.
Ratcheting micro-adjusting clasps do exist and make the process much easier and tool-free, but are often bulky and longer than traditional clasps. In addition, they simply expand externally from a zero position and can become awkwardly large under the wrist. Having such a large clasp may be a turn-off for many, especially those with small wrists.
With Supersede and its custom bracelet, we have started the development of a new micro-adjustment mechanism that moves with the simple push of a finger without the use of spring bars. It’s a more compact, advanced and aesthetically pleasing alternative to ratcheting counterparts.
However it is a new development and by no means finished and there is no guarantee at this time if it will ship with Supersede. The reason for the above disclaimer is because the deployant buckle we currently plan to ship which is used in the Autark and other Horage models took a year from the time of physical prototyping till completion. The reason for such a long timeline is due to the amount of changes required until a buckle passes lab testing and safety checks.
How Does It Work?
Starting with the adjustment itself, the system provides a full 10mm of travel (one centimetre). This is enabled by 10 positions of 1mm each, which is quite a bit of fine adjustment.
Like the case and bracelet of Supersede, the entire mechanism is 904L stainless steel and all adjustments happen inside the clasp for a clean, seamless aesthetic. No different than spring bar counterparts (comparable ratcheting mechanisms adjust from the outside). You can also just push to tighten the bracelet while wearing the watch, allowing you to snap it on loose and then dial it in without guesswork.
As with many great developments, simplicity masks the complexity of design.
Looking at the interior of the clasp, there are serrated edges on either side that lock into the corresponding teeth of the centre latch. This latch pushes downward, slides under the edges for adjustment and returns to the upward position to lock into place. Everything is again neatly concealed inside of the clasp, just like a micro-adjustment with spring bars, but you don’t have holes on the sides and can adjust the bracelet on the fly.
Design
HORAGE engineer Markus Lindstedt @ml began designing the micro-adjustable clasp over a year ago with the goal of producing a mechanism that resembled a sleek, conventional clasp. Something aesthetically clunky like other ratcheting clasps wasn't acceptable. The finished product has an ultra-low profile of just 5.6mm, which is just 1.25mm thicker than either side of the bracelet and have a buckle of just 40mm which make it thinner and more compact than other market leaders.
Security
The two buttons on either side of the clasp work independently of each other, so both must be pressed to open the buckle. This dual-pin construction prevents the watch from potentially falling off the wrist if bumped against a hard object, etc. Other designs have a single pin and are less secure. Every part of the clasp and mechanism is milled from 904L stainless steel for maximum durability and corrosion resistance. It’s engineered with a hard stop (lock) to prevent any movement or bending of the mechanism when pulled on. In fact, the load from pressure is distributed over the entire buckle and never isolated to a single point for maximum structural integrity. We design and engineer every aspect of a watch for the best performance and ease of use, and the clasp is no exception.
When will it be ready?
As mentioned at the start of this post the new micro-adjustment is still a very new project and in saying this we cannot guarantee at this time if it will ship with pre-orders as there is a lot of prototyping and lab testing to commence. However the current 3 point micro-adjustment that is used on the Autark models will ship with Supersede and if we are lucky to pass testing and move to production we will automatically upgrade each pre-order to this new micro-adjustment system.
With a year already on the digital drawing board it's now time to see how it will look, work and perform in the physical realm. Again, this is by no means a finished buckle, but we are optimistic and our team will do all they can to push this project forward.
Pre-order starts November 23rd at 14:00 CET.
Let us know in the comments your impressions on the all-new micro-adjustment system. Thank you as well to @Erik Slaven for the support on this write up.
See you Monday Live!
Landon Stirling
If I understood correctly, in todays livestream (22. Nov) there was a slide at 15:00 which said that the K2 movement would have 65h power reserve? But on the website it says that the supersede would have 70h+. Which one will apply at the end? Are the 70h+ power reserve guaranteed or could there still be changes about this?